I have returned from Estes Park, where I have been staying for over a week to hike along various trails in Rocky Mountain National Park. Estes Park is a rather sprawling town, despite its small size (its population is less than 6,000), with a minute downtown of a few blocks with an assortment of shops typical of resort areas. The architecture, though not ugly, is undistinguished. It does not charm, neither does it repel. Its most attractive feature is Lake Estes, a reservoir created by the Olympic Dam, which is surrounded by a trail of nearly four miles in circumference that I had occasion to use (as will be seen below) and notable for the number of elk in its proximity. Our accommodations were quite comfortable and exceedingly spacious.
The reason for staying at Estes Park, of course, is the access it provides for Rocky Mountain National Park, which is the one of the most frequently visited park in the country. It is huge, being over 400 square miles, with well over 350 miles of trails, so that it is impossible to cover it all in a single visit. Our party of nearly two dozen split up into several smaller groups each day to cover various alternatives, knowing very well that no matter which ones we chose there were bound to be many other desirable hikes that we would be obliged to omit. Here, then, is a day-by-day account of the hikes that I did on ths trip.
9/11, Flattop and various lakes, 12½ miles, 3,500’ elevation
I went with GC, who tends to be my main companion on such trips, since he attempts somewhat more ambitious hikes than the remainder of the group cares to essay. In order to get to the trailhead we were obliged to use a pass, which I had obtained beforehand, to the Bear Lake area of the park. The parking area fills up so rapidly, especially on weekends, that it is best to park at a “Park and Ride” area about halfway between the park entrance and the Bear Lake area, and then use a park-provided shuttle to the trailhead.
I was apprehensive about hiking the first day in such high elevation, particularly since I had slept badly the night before. But my fears were groundless. Despite feeling somewhat listless upon awakening, I immediately felt better once I began to hike on the trail. This has happened to me on several occasions in the past – that is, feeling rather weak or even a bit ill upon getting out of bed and riding to the trailhead, only to find my energies reviving once I begin to exert myself. The trail to Flattop is a fairly steady ascent, with few parts of it unduly steep. I did feel the effects of the elevation in the latter part of the hike, which is of course is higher; even though the grade of the path did not increase I slowed down considerably upon the approach to the summit. The views from the summit itself provide extensive vistas of many peaks, including Hallett Peak, and by venturing to the edge of the plateau at the top we obtained views of the Tyndall Glacier. Moreover, we were able to see from above several of the lakes for which the park is noted; as LM remarked, this area could easily be called the Lake District of North America. We roamed a little from the trail itself to obtain views of the glacier from other angles and also of Dream Lake and Emerald Lake from above.
Since it was before 1:00 by the time we returned, we added an there-and-back extension to Nymph Lake, Dream Lake, and Emerald Lake. Nymph Lake had been hidden from our perspective when we were on the trail to Flattop, but it is a clear lake dotted with numerous water-lilies. Dream Lake is long and narrow, with very clear waters, while Emerald Lake, true to its name, has a gem-like quality to its hue, which was accentuated by the sunlight sparkling on the surface. It was strange to see these two lakes from the shores after viewing them earlier in the day several hundred feet above them.
To our great pleasure we encountered LT and TJ at Emerald Lake; they had hiked there separately from the remainder of the group, and we chatted about our experiences of the park to date as we snacked by the lake shore and watched the play of the sunbeams on the lake surface.
9/12, Andrews Glacier and Sky Pond, 14 miles, 3000’ elevation
This hike was lovely, starting from Bear Lake, taking the trail past Nymph Lake and Dream Lake, and then veering towards the main trail leading from the Glacier Creek trailhead. From there we went up first to the Loch, a beautiful lake with views of Taylor Peak in the background. Then we ascended to Andrews Glacier along a grade that was moderate at first but which eventually became very precipitous as it went along a mountain wall. GC and I reached a ridge at the bottom of the glacier and went up some part of the glacier itself. But it would have been imprudent to ascend all the way to its top; it consisted of ice only, without any snow, and was soft and yielding in temperatures of the day, which were quite warm despite our elevation. Going up was certainly possible, but getting down again would have presented difficulties. Instead we had a relaxing lunch when we returned to the ridge, after which we descended to the main trail and went up to Lake of Glass and Sky Pond, both of them exceptionally large and clear. This part of the hike involved ascending alongside Timberline Falls, which was quite steep and rocky. One had to take care during the descent upon the return, with much use of the hands and arms. Both of the lakes were surrounded by numerous granite spires, highlighting their clarity. Again, we were fortunate in our weather, with untrammeled sunlight reflected on the lake surfaces.
9/13, Odessa and Fern Lakes, 10 miles, 2400’ elevation
The day began with a disappointment. I had gone with GC to the Long’s Peak trailhead at 4:00 AM to attempt the ascent to the summit (the only 14-er in the area), when I felt a sudden attack of illness – a fever of some kind – just a few hundred yards after we began. So we had to return to the hotel and I immediately took to my bed to sleep for an hour or so. When I awoke I felt somewhat better, although still somewhat weak. I did not wish, however, to spend the entire day doing nothing, so I decided to go with a few others in the group to the Bear Lakes area and attempt a less strenuous hike, always with the option of doubling back if I felt too weak to continue. JF, who drove the van to the area, asked me to take a COVID test before I boarded it – which I was quite glad to do, for I could not be certain whether my illness was in fact due to the pandemic. Happily, the test came out negative.
The others in the van were hiking to the lakes I had seen earlier, so I went to Odessa Lake and Fern Lake instead. I still was walking quite slowly in the beginning, even on areas when the trail was almost flat, but as time went on I began to feel stronger and my pace quickened. This was just as well, for the hike turned out to be more strenuous than I anticipated. The notice at the ranger station by the trailhead stated that the trail to Fern Lake was 4.7 miles, with 1200 feet of elevation gain in one direction. What it did not disclose, however, was that this elevation gain occurred within the first 2½ miles, after which the trail steadily descended first to Odessa Lake and then to Fern Lake. Fern Lake’s elevation is similar to that of Bear Lake, which meant that I would have to ascend nearly as much upon returning as I did getting there.
Odessa Lake is rather pretty, but less imposing than the lakes I had seen during the previous two days. Still, it had excellent views of Flattop, which I had summited two days previously. Fern Lake was quite depressing. A forest fire had occurred in its vicinity a few years ago; and since the vegetation in the Rockies is much less resilient than that of the eastern American forest, most of the tree limbs around the lake remained blackened and scorched. Moreover, the shore immediately around the lake is inaccessible, being cordoned off for purposes of restoration. The views of the surrounding peaks, in consequence, are greatly restricted.
I don’t mean to exaggerate these defects. It was not a great hike but it was a reasonably good one. It accomplished my main goal of restoring myself after my sudden bout of illness in the early morning; and it certainly was a preferable alternative to remaining in Estes Park with nothing to do for the entire day.
9/14, Gem Lake and Balanced Rock, 8½ miles, 2000’ elevation
This hike, in contrast to that of the day before, was splendid in every respect. I went with several others to the Lumpy Ridge trailhead, so-called because it is a granite ridge with oddly shaped boulders and rock formations. Many of these are popular among rock climbers. We ascended to Gem Lake, with many views along the way, including several bird’s-eye views of Estes Park. Gem Lake itself is small, shallow, and dark-brown in hue, almost coffee-colored, but it is set amid magnificent rock formations and when we went along the rock to one side of the lake, as we had been advised to do by two hikers we met along the way as they were descending, we had a stunning perspective of the granite rock walls encircling it.
Afterwards we went through a pleasant and shaded forest trail to Balanced Rock, which rather resembles a huge golf ball balanced upon an equally oversize tee.
We ate lunch after turning back and reaching Gem Lake again. Dark clouds were forming on the horizon, so we did not linger as much as we might have done under other circumstances. The descent immediately after the lake is steep and rocky, and would not have been pleasant to attempt during rainy weather. As I descended, I came across two other hikers who had begun their descent but who were resting for a few minutes. As I passed them they said to me in awestruck tones, “You must be in a great hurry.” Well, as I told them, I was to an extent; it seemed to me a matter of some urgency to complete the rockiest portion of the descent before any precipitation started. However, I did take a slight detour towards the very end, which added a half-mile to the total hike distance and provided views of the area just to the north of Estes Park.
On this day I read a news item stating that the WHO declared that we are near the end of the pandemic. The WHO compared the current phase of the pandemic to the final stages of a marathon, when the end of the race is in sight but it is still imperative not to allow one’s energies to flag if one is to reach the goal.
9/15, Timberline Pass, 4 miles, 500’ elevation and Estes Park, 4 miles, minimal elevation
This hike was at once the easiest and the most difficult of the hikes of the trip; easiest, because the distance was short and the elevation gain hardly noticeable; most difficult, because it was set in tundra 11,000 feet above sea level, resulting in cold temperatures, continual light rain that occasionally turned into sleet, and a sharp wind constantly blowing. But the views of the tundra were splendid, treeless plateau stretching to strangely weathered rocks and, through the cloud cover, sporadic glimpses of immense green valleys below. The drifting mist provided a dramatic contrast to the lowlands where the mist did not reach.
We ended the hike and returned to town early. I therefore completed the trail around Estes Lake, which is impressively large and blue. At one point I was forced to skirt around a herd of elk reposing upon the trail itself. A bull elk with immense antlers at some distance from the trail was presiding over his harem; and since it was their rutting season, prudence dictated that I did not approach the females too closely.
9/16, Chasm Lake, 8½ miles, 2500’ elevation
I had completed several hikes up to this point, most of them enjoyable, many of them impressive. But this hike was by far my favorite. The first two miles went through dense pine forest, after which it went above treeline. Lovely and extensive views prevailed as I continued the ascent. I was slightly confused after the trail went to a ridge and I found myself looking down upon Peacock Pond, which I thought was my destination. It is a fairly picturesque lake but it did not seem extraordinary. However, after I met other hikers who told me that there was still some distance to go to Chasm Lake itself, I pressed forward. The trail descended slightly to the base of a rock wall, which I had to scramble over to reach the lake – easily the most majestic of the lakes that I saw on the entire trip, very large, intense blue-green in color, lined with peaks and cliffs all along its shore.
I returned somewhat earlier than the others in my group, so I chatted with the ranger while I waited. I was curious enough to ask that, since the signs stated that park passes were required to park in the lot beside the trailhead, why there was no one to whom we could show the passes when we parked there in the morning. (We arrived at 6:00, because the parking area fills up very quickly; only two spaces were available by the time we arrived.) He responded, quite airily, “You can show me yours now if you like.” He seemed quite nonchalant about the matter, and I could not help contrasting his insouciance to the rigor with which passes to the Bear Lake area are reviewed and verified. He also mentioned that he was without a partner for part of the day; his associate had been called to rescue a hiker who had broken her ankle while attempting to reach Sky Pond. Rescue missions of this nature, he told me, occur in the park on almost a daily basis.
9/17, Mt. Chapin, Marmot Peak, Lake Irene, 6 miles total, 1800’ elevation gain
The hike on this day was at once a wonderful experience and a disappointment. I went with several others to ascend Mt. Chapin. We started fairly early and went to the trailhead along a steep dirt road. Although it took a while to reach the parking area, portions of the trail were still featured a light coating of snow from a brief precipitation that had occurred the previous evening. The trail went through tundra scenery as it ascended, sometimes quite steeply. At one point the trail leveled out, slabbing a mountain wall. It was rocky and of course one had to step carefully, for the snow covering was at its thickest at this point. I put on my micro-spikes along this portion of the trail. That was perhaps not necessary, but I felt much more confident when I had put them on. By the time I reached the saddle between Mt. Chapin and Chiquita Mountain, they were no longer needed and I removed them.
There were seven in our party, but two of them turned back and LM accompanied them. Only four of us remained to go up Mt. Chapin. The views from the summit were wonderful, a 360-degree panorama, including the Trail Ridge Road and the Alpine Visitor Center in the distance. The weather was cold and blustery, but dry and very sunny.
It was an ideal hike as far as it went, but I wished to summit Chiquita as well, since it was a short distance once we descended again to the saddle to the ascent on its other side to the second summit, particularly as the snow had melted by the time we reached the saddle. But it would have taken us about an hour in each direction to complete Chiquita, and that was too long a period to force the others to wait. No doubt the views from Chiquita would have been similar to those we saw from Chapin, but the hike would have been splendid all the same. A wasted opportunity, but it could not be helped!
When we returned and then drove towards the Visitor Center on Trail Ridge Road, we went up Marmot Peak, a brief hike (less than ½ mile in one direction) but very steep in places, going up 300 feet. It was windy in the extreme at the top. Again, it provided overwhelming views, including some of the Continental Divide.
The walk around Lake Irene was not a hike at all, but a gentle stroll around a rather nondescript lake. But it was sufficiently pleasant way to wind down after the day’s previous exertions.
9/18, Twin Sisters and Lily Ridge, 10 miles, 3000’ elevation
I went with GC this last day to Twin Sisters. I found the ascent slightly more difficult than the one to Flattop, because it is somewhat steeper in a few places, although never for any great distance. On the other hand, once the trail went above treeline and approached the saddle between the two peaks, or “sisters,” it was slightly easier than the final approach to the plateau of Flattop. The views are as extensive here as they were on Flattop and Chapin, and they look down from a great height upon Estes Park and its environs. I probably would have been more overwhelmed by these views had I seen them earlier in the trip; now, after several overlooks of this type, the views seemed . . . not mundane, exactly, but familiar. It was an excellent hike and I would have greatly enjoyed it in any case, but it would not have been memorable had it not been for the sequel.
Since we completed the hike at 12:00, we went across to the road to Lily Lake. The lake is pretty and fairly large, in a setting surrounded by various peaks. We went along the Lily Ridge trail, which goes slightly higher than a second trail that hugs the lake shore. I was anticipating a tranquil stroll of a mile or so as we began to skirt through various crags. Then at one point GC said, “I think there’s an unmarked trail that goes up to there.” An unmarked trail that involved several additional feet of ascent, with no certainty of reaching our objective and also entailing a possibility of getting lost – you can see that it was not even a matter of discussion. Up we went accordingly; the trail proved to be, though narrow, fairly consistently laid out and not difficult to follow. As we came to a ledge at the base of the crags, we discovered that the area was a popular site for rock climbers. One set of crags in particular, known as “Jurassic Park,” had several climbers scaling its heights. We snacked on top of one of the crags and contemplated the views from the summit. Even though we were considerably lower than we had been at the top of Twin Sisters, the views were well worth seeing – particularly as from some angles the lake at the base provided a contrast to the surrounding peaks and valleys. It was a splendid way to round off the trip.